The history of knitting

The history of knitting

Craft & Heritage

The History of Knitting:
From Ancient Craft to Modern Art

The history of knitting stretches back over a thousand years, from the earliest surviving knitted fragments found in Egypt to the precision WholeGarment technology used in New Zealand luxury knitwear today. What began as a method of survival, a way to keep bodies warm in hostile climates, has evolved into one of the world's most enduring and beloved crafts. This is the story of how knitting got here.


The oldest knitted pieces on earth

The earliest confirmed knitted objects ever discovered date back to Egypt, sometime between the 11th and 14th centuries. Among them are a pair of cotton socks, striped in indigo and natural white, constructed using a technique called nalbinding, an early form of looping yarn with a single needle. They were found in Cairo and are now held in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

What is remarkable about these socks is not just their age, but their craft. The colour is precise. The tension is even. The shaping at the heel and toe shows a maker who understood structure deeply. These were not primitive objects. They were the work of someone who had mastered a skill passed down through generations.

Nalbinding pre-dates knitting as we know it today, but it shares the same fundamental logic: interlocking loops of fibre to create a fabric that stretches, breathes, and holds its shape. The step from nalbinding to two-needle knitting is thought to have occurred gradually across the Middle East and Mediterranean, though exactly when and where remains a subject of debate among textile historians.

The earliest knitters were not hobbyists. They were providing something essential: warmth, protection, and shelter from the cold.

Knitting arrives in Europe

By the 13th century, knitting had spread into Europe via trade routes through Spain and Italy. The craft found early patrons among religious communities. Some of the most sophisticated knitted items from this era are liturgical gloves and vestments, produced in monasteries with extraordinary technical precision. A pair of knitted gloves discovered in the tomb of Fernando de la Cerda, a Spanish infante who died in 1275, is among the finest surviving examples. The work is so intricate it appears almost woven.

From religious settings, knitting moved into trade guilds. By the 15th century, professional knitting guilds had been established across Europe, particularly in France, Germany, and England. Admission required a six-year apprenticeship, after which a candidate had to produce a masterwork: a knitted carpet, a beret, a pair of stockings, and a knitted shirt, all within thirteen weeks, and all to standards judged by a panel of masters.

This was not a domestic pastime. It was a profession, and a competitive one. Knitted silk stockings became luxury goods associated with royalty and wealth. Queen Elizabeth I of England is said to have received a pair of knitted silk stockings as a gift and refused to wear anything else from that point forward.

The knitting machine changes everything

In 1589, a clergyman from Nottinghamshire named William Lee petitioned Queen Elizabeth I for a patent on a mechanical knitting frame he had invented. The stocking frame, as it became known, could produce fabric roughly eight times faster than knitting by hand. The queen refused the patent, reportedly concerned about the impact on hand-knitters across the country.

Lee took his machine to France, where Henry IV showed more interest, though the venture was cut short by the king's assassination. The stocking frame eventually returned to England and became foundational to the textile industry that would drive the Industrial Revolution. Nottingham and Leicester became centres of machine knitting, producing hosiery and fabric at scale for the first time in history.

Hand knitting did not disappear. It moved from trade into the home, particularly among women and in rural communities. In the British Isles, regional knitting traditions developed their own distinct identities: the intricate cables of Aran, the colourwork of Fair Isle, the ganseys of Yorkshire fishing villages where patterns encoded the identity of the wearer and, in darker circumstances, helped identify those lost at sea.

Knitting has always been both practical and personal. The same hands that made something useful made something meaningful.

Knitting in wartime

In both World War I and World War II, knitting became a form of civic participation. Governments on both sides of the Atlantic ran campaigns encouraging civilians, particularly women, to knit socks, gloves, scarves, and balaclavas for troops. The British Red Cross distributed patterns. American magazines ran columns with instructions. Knitting circles formed in workplaces, schools, and community halls.

Knitting during wartime carried a dual meaning. It was practical, filling a genuine need for warm clothing among soldiers in cold theatres of war. And it was psychological, a way for those at home to feel they were contributing, to turn anxiety into action, and to maintain a connection with those who had gone away. The rhythmic click of needles became the sound of solidarity.

The postwar revival and beyond

The postwar decades brought synthetic fibres, fast fashion, and a gradual decline in home knitting. By the 1970s and 1980s, knitwear was largely industrialised, and hand knitting was sometimes dismissed as old-fashioned. But the craft has always found its way back.

The early 2000s saw a significant resurgence, driven in part by younger generations seeking something slow and intentional in a fast-paced world. Online communities formed around knitting. Designers began treating it as a medium for high fashion. The concept of slow fashion, making things that last rather than buying things that don't, brought a new kind of attention to the skills and materials behind knitted garments.

Today, knitting sits at an interesting intersection. Industrial technology like WholeGarment knitting has made it possible to produce a seamless, zero-waste garment in a single automated process. And at the same time, hand knitters around the world continue to cast on with needles that look almost identical to those used centuries ago. Both paths lead to the same place: fabric made from loops, shaped by intention, worn by a person who wanted something that lasts.

A Brief Timeline of Knitting

11th C.
Earliest known knitted objects appear in Egypt, including cotton socks worked in nalbinding technique.
13th C.
Knitting spreads into Europe via trade routes. Liturgical gloves and fine silk stockings become luxury items.
15th C.
Professional knitting guilds established across France, Germany, and England. Six-year apprenticeships required.
1589
William Lee invents the stocking frame, the first mechanical knitting device, setting the stage for industrial textile production.
1914-18 & 1939-45
Mass civilian knitting campaigns support troops during both World Wars. Knitting becomes a form of collective action.
2000s
A global slow-fashion movement revives interest in hand knitting and high-quality, traceable knitwear.
Today
WholeGarment technology produces seamless, zero-waste knitwear. The craft is both ancient and cutting-edge.

Where history meets what we make

At NZ Charly, every piece sits within this long tradition. We use WholeGarment technology because it produces the best possible garment with the least possible waste, but the fibres we use, New Zealand possum down, ZQ-certified merino, cashmere and silk, have been valued by makers for centuries. The craft has changed. The instinct behind it has not.

We make things meant to last. Things you will still be wearing in twenty years, wondering why everything else in your wardrobe feels so temporary by comparison. That, at its heart, is what knitting has always been about.

Curious about what a thousand years of knitting looks like
when it's made right here in New Zealand?

Explore the Collection
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