The Difference Between Hand Knitting and WholeGarment Machine Knitting

If you’ve ever looked at a knitwear label and seen the word “gauge,” you might’ve wondered what on earth it means — and whether it’s the same for all kinds of knitwear. Spoiler: it’s not.

At NZ Charly, we get a lot of questions about knitwear gauge — especially from customers who hand knit or have grown up with a grandma who did. So, here’s a simple explanation of the difference between hand knitting gauge and machine knitting (specifically WholeGarment) gauge, and how it applies to our own knits.

What is Gauge in Knitting?

Gauge simply refers to how many stitches are knitted per inch (or per 10 cm). It gives an indication of how thick, fine, dense, or breathable a knitted fabric will be.

In Hand Knitting

In hand knitting, gauge is usually measured by how many stitches and rows fit into a 10x10cm swatch. It depends on the weight of the yarn, the size of the needles, and how tight or loose the knitter holds the yarn. For example:

• Thick yarn + big needles = fewer stitches per inch → a chunky, airy knit
• Thin yarn + small needles = more stitches per inch → a fine, dense knit

Most yarn labels for hand knitting will recommend a needle size and give an expected gauge range.

In Machine Knitting (Like Ours)

WholeGarment machine knitting — the kind we use at NZ Charly — works a little differently.

Instead of choosing a yarn and matching it to needles, industrial knitting machines are set up to handle specific yarn types and gauges with mechanical precision. The machine gauge refers to how many needles are in one inch across the needle bed. A higher gauge means more needles and finer knitting. A lower gauge means fewer needles and a chunkier knit.

The Gauges We Use at NZ Charly

At NZ Charly, we knit everything using Shima Seiki WholeGarment technology — seamless, zero-waste knitting that creates incredibly refined garments without cutting or sewing.

We use two core yarns:

• 2/18NM yarn — This yarn is ideal for our 7–10 gauge knits. These are perfect for autumn and winter, with warmth and structure while still maintaining breathability. These make up most of our mid-weight sweaters.
• 2/28NM yarn — This fine yarn is used in our 12–18 gauge knits. Think featherlight, luxury cashmere blends that are perfect for layering year-round. These garments are soft, fine, and silky smooth on the skin.

We choose these gauges to suit our fibre blends (like Merino, Possum, Cashmere, Silk), and to give you the best balance of warmth, structure, breathability, and elegance — without adding bulk.

Why It Matters

Understanding gauge helps you know what to expect from your knit. A finer gauge is better for layering, drape, and softness. A mid-gauge offers a balance of warmth and breathability, perfect for everyday wear. And thanks to WholeGarment technology, all of our pieces are made with zero waste and engineered for durability — no seams, no fabric cut-offs, just smart sustainable knitwear.

Still not sure which is right for you? Just ask — we love helping match the perfect knit to your needs.