We get a lot of questions about gauge, particularly from customers who hand knit or grew up around someone who did. It makes sense. The word appears on labels and product descriptions, but it is rarely explained in a way that actually helps you understand what the fabric will feel like before you buy it.
The short answer is this: gauge tells you how many stitches are packed into a given space. The more stitches per inch, the finer and more refined the fabric. The fewer stitches per inch, the chunkier and more textured. But how gauge works in hand knitting and how it works in machine knitting are two quite different things.
What Is Gauge in Knitting?
Gauge refers to how many stitches are knitted per inch, or per 10 centimetres. It gives a reliable indication of how thick, fine, dense, or breathable a knitted fabric will be. The same yarn knitted at different gauges produces completely different fabrics with different weights, drape, and warmth.
Hand Knitting Gauge
In hand knitting, gauge is measured by how many stitches and rows fit into a 10 by 10 centimetre swatch. It depends on the yarn weight, needle size, and how tightly the knitter holds the yarn. Thick yarn on big needles produces fewer stitches per inch and a chunky, airy fabric. Fine yarn on small needles produces more stitches per inch and a denser, lighter-weight knit. Most yarn labels will recommend a needle size and give an expected gauge range.
Machine Knitting Gauge
WholeGarment machine knitting works differently. Rather than matching a yarn to needles by hand, industrial machines are engineered to handle specific yarn types with mechanical precision. In machine knitting, gauge refers to how many needles are present per inch across the needle bed. More needles per inch means a finer gauge and a more refined fabric. Fewer needles per inch means a lower gauge and a chunkier, more structured knit.
In hand knitting, gauge can vary between knitters even using the same yarn and needle size. In machine knitting, gauge is fixed and consistent across every stitch of every garment. This mechanical precision is part of what gives WholeGarment knitwear its uniform surface quality and reliable fit.
The Gauges We Use at NZ Charly
All NZ Charly knitwear is produced on Shima Seiki WholeGarment machines, which knit each piece as a single seamless three-dimensional structure with no cutting, no sewing, and no off-cuts. Within that process, we work with two core yarn specifications that determine the gauge and character of the finished fabric.
| Yarn | Gauge Range | Character | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2/18NM | 7 to 10 gauge | Mid-weight, structured, warm with breathability | Autumn and winter, everyday wear, mid-layer pieces |
| 2/28NM | 12 to 18 gauge | Fine, featherlight, silky surface, refined drape | Year-round layering, luxury cashmere blends, next-to-skin pieces |
The 2/18NM yarn is used across the majority of our mid-weight merino and possum blends. These are the pieces that form the core of an autumn and winter wardrobe, warm enough to carry you through a cold morning, breathable enough to wear indoors all day.
The 2/28NM yarn is reserved for our finest blends, particularly the cashmere, possum, and silk pieces in the Perino Cirrus range. At 12 to 18 gauge, these fabrics are noticeably finer against the skin, with a surface quality and drape that sits closer to a woven silk than a traditional wool knit.
The gauge does not just determine how a garment looks. It determines how it behaves on your body, how it layers, and how it wears over time.
Why Gauge Matters When You Are Choosing a Knit
Understanding gauge gives you a more useful way to choose knitwear than simply going by weight or fibre alone. Two garments made from the same merino possum blend will feel quite different at 7 gauge versus 14 gauge. The lower gauge piece will have more structure, visible texture, and outerwear warmth. The higher gauge piece will drape more softly, sit closer to the body, and layer more easily under other pieces.
Gauge and fibre work together, not independently.
A fine cashmere blend knitted at 7 gauge would lose much of its characteristic softness and drape. A mid-weight merino blend knitted at 18 gauge might feel too sheer for the warmth it is meant to provide. At NZ Charly, every gauge decision is made in relation to the fibre blend it is paired with, and to the specific way we want that garment to feel and perform on the body.
If you are ever unsure which piece is right for you, whether you are looking for something to layer under a coat, wear as a standalone midlayer, or dress up for an evening, just reach out. We know our garments well and we are always happy to help you find the right match.